Designer Paul Poiret French

Not on view

A complicated piecing of two different but related textiles emphasizes the straight lines of this coat. Poiret's signature rose is woven into two broad, faintly ombré running lengths bracketed by narrow unmatched stripes. The actual design of this textile is evidenced only by the incorporation of the outer boundaries of the pattern to form the garment's sleeves. Another fabric, of confronting scalloped stripes, is inserted at either side of the coat. The narrow band cuffs are in the same plain, loosely woven wool that comprises the lining. The yarn of the lining is identical in color to the ivory ground of the floral and striped patterned textiles that make up the body of the coat. The design reveals none of the virtuosity of its construction, with the coat's apparent simplicity obscuring its technical complexity.

Coat, Paul Poiret (French, Paris 1879–1944 Paris), wool, French

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