A complicated piecing of two different but related textiles emphasizes the straight lines of this coat. Poiret's signature rose is woven into two broad, faintly ombré running lengths bracketed by narrow unmatched stripes. The actual design of this textile is evidenced only by the incorporation of the outer boundaries of the pattern to form the garment's sleeves. Another fabric, of confronting scalloped stripes, is inserted at either side of the coat. The narrow band cuffs are in the same plain, loosely woven wool that comprises the lining. The yarn of the lining is identical in color to the ivory ground of the floral and striped patterned textiles that make up the body of the coat. The design reveals none of the virtuosity of its construction, with the coat's apparent simplicity obscuring its technical complexity.
Marking: [label] Paul Poiret - Paris
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Bloom: Fashion's Spring Gardens," March 30, 1995–August 20, 1995.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "The 10s, the 20s, the 30s: Inventive Clothes (1909–1939)," December 13, 1973–September 3, 1974.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "The Art of Fashion," October 23, 1967–January 1, 1968.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Poiret: King of Fashion," May 9, 2007–August 5, 2007.
National Gallery of Victoria. "Fabulous Fashion (1907–67)," 1981.
Victoria and Albert Museum. "Fashion 1900–1939," December 12, 1975–1976.