Opera coat

Design House House of Paquin French
Designer Jeanne Paquin French

Not on view

As the first couturière to advertise her fashion house by taking a tableau of models to operas and races uniformed in her concoctions, Madame Jeanne Paquin nodded incessantly to the showman's dramatic line and the aristocracy's love of luxurious tactile material. This opera coat, perhaps extensively modeled after the columnar shapes and mythical planar designs of the Orientalist sensibility, echoes the ouevre of créateur Paul Poiret and the theatricality of the Leon Bakst's costumes for Les Ballets Russes. The rose-colored tassles that hang at the sides of the coat draw the distant eye to this miraculous creation, allowing one to linger long enough to notice the fashionably demure hobble shape inasmuch as the intricacies of Paquin's eccentric embroidery and beadwork.

Opera coat, House of Paquin (French, 1891–1956), silk, French

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overall view from the back