Turkmen Jewelry: Silver Ornaments from the Marshall and Marilyn Wolf Collection

Turkmen Jewelry: Silver Ornaments from the Marshall and Marilyn Wolf Collection

Diba, Layla S., with contributions by Stefano Carboni and Jean-François de Lapérouse
2011
264 pages
290 illustrations
Recognized by The New York Times as one of the year's five best books on collecting antique, featured in the Weekend Section in the Times (2012)
Included in The New York Times Holiday Gift Guide (2012)
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Best known for their carpets and textiles, the nomadic Turkmen people of Central Asia have also long distinguished themselves as the makers of extraordinary silver jewelry. This book presents more than two hundred examples of Turkmen jewelry, created in the nineteenth century and early twentieth centuries, from the renowned collection of Marshall and Marilyn R. Wolf.

These remarkable objects—crowns and headbands, armbands and rings, necklets and amulet holders—are characterized by graceful forms, bold geometry, delicate openwork, and often enormous scale. Working with a limited set of materials (silver accented by gold, carnelian, turquoise, and colored glass) and relatively simple techniques, Turkmen silversmiths used great ingenuity to achieve their dazzling effects.

This book, the first publication in the United States devoted to Turkmen jewelry, highlights the aesthetic aspects of these objects, which until recently were valued primarily for their ethnographic significance. Layla S. Diba situates Turkmen ornament within both its historical context and the tradition of Islamic jewelry production. By taking an art historical approach and provided detailed formal analysis of the objects, supplemented by gorgeous color photographs, this publication broadens the appreciation of these vibrant, monumental pieces, elevating them from folk art to fine art.

Met Art in Publication

Jewelry Elements, Gold sheet; worked, chased, and set  with turquoise, gray chalcedony, and glass
late 14th–16th century
Bracelet, Silver
12th century
Crown, Silver, with decorative wire and stamped decoration, table-cut incised carnelians, turquoise, beads, openwork, and silver coins; quilted cotton lining, cotton cords and tassels with beads, and velvet strip with metal ornaments
late 19th–early 20th century
Crown, Silver, with openwork, decorative wire, and slightly domed and tablecut carnelians and turquoises; cotton foundation
late 19th–early 20th century
Crown, Silver, with stamped and applied decoration, decorative wire, silver shot, table-cut turquoises, and turquoise beads; quilted cotton lining.
late 19th–early 20th century
Crown, Silver; fire-gilded and chased, with openwork, decorative wire, and table-cut carnelians; contemporary red cotton lining
late 19th–early 20th century
Crown, Silver; fire-gilded and chased, with openwork, table-cut carnelians, wire chains, and embossed pendants
late 19th–early 20th century
Crown, Silver; fire-gilded and chased with wire chains, table cut carnelians and turquoise beads; quilted cotton lining.
late 19th–early 20th century
Crown, Silver; fire-gilded, with decorative wire, synthetic resin inlays, loop-in- loop chains, embossed pendants, and bells; quilted cotton lining
late 19th–early 20th century
Crown, Silver; with silver shot, table-cut carnelians, turquoise beads, and gilded loop-in-loop chains with pendants
late 19th–early 20th century
Headband, Silver; fire-gilded and chased, with openwork, decorative wire, and table-cut and cabochon carnelians
late 19th–early 20th century
Headdress Ornament in the Shape of Double Bird, Silver; fire-gilded, with chip-carved decoration, cabochon carnelians, turquoise-beaded balls, and links
late 19th–early 20th century
Dorsal Headdress Ornament, One of a Pair, Silver; with gilt applied decoration, connecting links with embossed decoration, ram’s-head terminals, loop-in-loop chains, and table-cut carnelians
late 19th–early 20th century
Three-color Luster Bowl with Stylized Tree
, Earthenware; polychrome luster-painted on opaque white glaze
9th century
Long Temple Pendant, One of a Pair, Silver, fire-gilded and chased, with decorative wire, applied and openwork decoration, connecting links with applied decoration, embossed pendants, and table-cut carnelians
early 20th century
Pair of Long Temple Pendants, Silver; fire-glided and chased, with openwork, table-cut carnelians, loop-in-loop chains, bells, and embossed pendants
late 19th–early 20th century
Temple Pendant, One of a Pair, Silver; fire-gilded, with decorative wire, table-cut carnelians, glass stones, turquoise beads, loop-in- loop chains, and embossed pendants
late 19th–early 20th century
Long Temple Pendant, One of a Pair, Silver; fire-gilded, with openwork, cabochon carnelians, silver chains, and embossed pendants.
probably 20th century
Short Temple Pendant, One of a Pair, Silver; fire-gilded, with stamped beading, silver shot, applied decoration, chains, embossed pendants, and turquoise beads
late 19th–early 20th century
Earring, One of a Pair, Silver; fire-gilded with embossed and twisted wire decoration
late 19th–early 20th century
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Citation

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Diba, Layla S., and Metropolitan Museum of Art, eds. 2011. Turkmen Jewelry: Silver Ornaments from the Marshall and Marilyn R. Wolf Collection. New York, NY: Metropolitan Museum of Art.