Dress

Junya Watanabe joined Comme des Garçons as a pattern-maker shortly after graduating from Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. In 1992, at age 23, he launched his namesake womenswear line under the CDG label. His work combines an innovative approach to form with elements of historicism. This ensemble of black cotton parachute fabric with nylon straps and buckles was inspired by the mechanics of backpacks. Watanabe subverts the aesthetic, which recalls the bondage and fetish wear of 1970s punk, with a fabric embroidered in a butterfly motif. The delicate all-over pattern and puffed silhouette, achieved by tightening the straps, suggests the design and construction of late-18th century polonaise gowns.