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Over Robe (Uchikake) with Curtain of State Design
Not on view
This elegant over robe (uchikake, a garment worn over a kimono without an obi sash) was probably made for the wedding of a wealthy merchant-class woman. It has a red crepe silk lining, a padded hem, and long sleeves appropriate for a young lady. The white, figured silk damask has a woven pattern of mandarin oranges, an auspicious symbol of longevity, and is embellished with so-called curtains of state (kichō), which also bear auspicious symbols. These portable curtains, featured frequently in The Tale of Genji, provided privacy for aristocratic women, who were not supposed to be seen. Wedding uchikake were often made in sets of three, including white, red, and black garments. The red robe from this set is in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; the black one is lost.
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