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Battle Surcoat (Jinbaori) with Tattered Fan
Not on view
The jinbaori ceased to be battle wear during the peaceful Edo period, and transitioned into a garment used for ceremonial occasions. On this example, the collar, originally designed to be closed against the cold, evolved into a decorative open collar, while the “sword support” shoulder piece (tachi-uke) was rotated toward the front, so it was no longer functional. This thick wool fabric was dyed black with logwood. At the back of the jinbaori, directly above the slit, is the pattern of a tattered fan in white wool appliqué and gold embroidery. Battle fans were crucial on the battlefield for giving signals, and also were believed to summon deities and good luck, and to have spiritual powers. This unusual tattered-fan motif might signify a military commander’s determination to keep fighting and never retreat, no matter how injured. It also suggests the fragility of life and the inevitability of decay.
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