Textile sample book
Not on view
This sample book was a marketing tool; it contains swatches of fabric made by the Manchester manufacturing firm of Benjamin and John Bower. The samples on this page are woven with a very fine cotton warp and single, silk weft. The cotton fibers are likely of the Sea Island type, and when seen under the microscope, the morphology in the longitudinal view reveals short, steep-angled convolutions that contribute to the textile’s uniform and smooth texture.
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![Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](https://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/es/web-additional/DP6759.jpg)
![Plate 1 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 2 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 3 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 4 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 5 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 6 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 7 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 8 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 9 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 10 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 11 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 12 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 13 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 14 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 15 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 16 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 17 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 18 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 19 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 20 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 21 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 22 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 23 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 24 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 25 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 26 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 27 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 28 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 29 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 30 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 31 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 32 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 33 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 34 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 35 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 36 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 37 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 38 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 39 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 40 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 41 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 42 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 43 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 44 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 45 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 46 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Plate 47 Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Sample 201 used in weave analysis described in Medium Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![156.4 T31 #202 viewed under compound microscope, 20x. Photography by Kristine Kamiya. Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
![Textile sample book, Paper, cloth binding, with attached samples of fustian (variety of warp and weft combinations in wool, silk, linen, and cotton); warp: cotton dyed in dark brown, spun and Z twist/no ply, 30–32 per cm; warp: silk dyed in light blue, no visible twist/no ply, 12 per 0.1 cm; weft: silk dyed in pink, no visible twist/no ply, 28 per cm, British](/Rodan/dist/img/1x1-d7dcde.gif)
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Plate 45
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Plate 46
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Plate 47
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Sample 201 used in weave analysis described in Medium
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156.4 T31 #202 viewed under compound microscope, 20x. Photography by Kristine Kamiya.
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