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Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800

Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500–1800

Peck, Amelia, with contributions by Amy Bogansky, Joyce Denney, John Guy, Maria João Pacheco Ferrerira, Elena Phipps, Marika Sardar, Cynthia V. A. Schaffner, Kristen Stewart, and Melinda Watt
2013
360 pages
360 illustrations
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The golden age of European navigation engendered a flourishing textile trade, causing a breathtaking variety of textile designs to travel across the globe. These textiles blended the traditional designs, skills, and tastes of the cultures that produced them with those of their destinations, resulting in objects that are both intrinsically beautiful and historically intriguing.

While previous studies have focused on this story from the viewpoint of trade, Interwoven Globe is the first book to investigate it as a history of design—and to approach it from a universal perspective. Richly illustrated texts examine the interrelationship of textiles, commerce, and taste from the Age of Discovery to the 19th century, providing detailed discussions of more than 120 works. From India with its renowned mastery of dyed-and-painted cotton to the sumptuous silks of Japan and China, Turkey, and Iran, the paths of influence are traced westward to Europe and the Americas. Shaped by an emerging worldwide visual culture, the fashion for the "exotic" in textiles, as well as in other goods and art forms, gave rise to what can be called the first global style. Written by an interdisciplinary curatorial team, this fascinating exploration will appeal to readers interested in art history, fashion and style, textile design, and world events of the early modern period.

Pansies, Henri Matisse  French, Oil on paper mounted on paperboard
ca. 1903
Panel, blue-resist textile, Cotton, painted and block-printed resist, dyed, Indian textile for American market
Indian textile for American market
ca. 1725–75
Textile with Sacred Goose (Hamsa) Design, Cotton, block-printed and mordant-dyed, India (Gujarat, for Indonesian Market)
India (Gujarat, for Indonesian Market)
15th–early 16th century
Whose Sleeves? (Tagasode), Pair of six-panel folding screens; ink, color, and gold on gilt paper, Japan
Japan
(right screen) late 16th–early 17th century; (left screen) early to mid-17th century
Pha-nung with Celestial Worshippers Design, Painted mordant-dyed, drawn- resist-dyed and painted, on plain-weave cotton, India for the Thai market
India for the Thai market
18th century
Panel with a Phoenix and Birds in a Rock Garden, Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi), China
China
late 16th–early 17th century
Curtain, Velvet with gilt thread, Portuguese
Portuguese
17th century
Rank Badge with Crane, Silk and metallic thread embroidery on silk satin, China
China
late 17th–early 18th century
Robe (Kosode) with Shells and Sea Grasses 
, Embroidery and gold leaf on plain-weave silk patterned with warp floats, Japan
Japan
early 17th century
"Portrait of the Russian Ambassador, Prince Andrey Priklonskiy", Folio from the Davis Album, 'Ali Quli Jabbadar  Iranian, Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper
dated 1048 AH/1673–74 CE
Mechti Kuli Beg, Persian Ambassador to Prague, Aegidius Sadeler II  Netherlandish, Engraving
1605
The Audience of the Emperor from the series The Story of the Emperor of China, Guy Louis Vernansal the Elder  French, Wool, silk (19-20 warps per inch, 8 per cm.), French, Beauvais
Multiple artists/makers
designed ca. 1685–90, woven ca. 1685–1740
Piece, Bromley Hall Printworks, Linen, British, London
ca. 1765
Margaret Strachan (Mrs. Thomas Harwood), Charles Willson Peale  American, Oil on canvas, American
ca. 1771
Bed hanging, Wool on cotton and linen twill, British
British
late 17th century
Piece, Cotton, Dutch
Dutch
18th century
"Les Travaux de la Manufacture", Oberkampf Manufactory  French, Linen, French, Jouy-en-Josas
1783
Les travaux de la manufacture, Jean-Baptiste Huet I  French, Linen, French, Jouy-en-Josas
1783
Piece, Linen, British or French
British or French
ca. 1725
Wedding dress, silk, American
American
1776
Showing 20 of 140

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———. 2013. Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800 [Exhibition, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, September 16, 2013 - January 5, 2014]. New York New Haven: Metropolitan museum of art distributed by Yale university press.