Over Robe (Uchikake) with Fans and Flowers
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High-ranking samurai women wore luxurious uchikake like this one in the late Edo period. The distinguishing characteristics of this type of robe are color and pattern. Usually arrayed on a red or white ground, various floral patterns alternate in a blocklike layout with a nonfloral pattern, such as stylized waves, key-fret patterns, or fans (as here). On this robe, chrysanthemums, peonies, and cascading wisteria mingle with colorful butterflies executed in kanoko tiedye and silk and metallic-thread embroidery. The damask ground is embellished with more chrysanthemums and a geometric key-fret pattern.
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