“Hanaōgi of the Gomeirō,” from the series Comparing the Charms of Beauties (Bijin kiryō kurabe: Gomeirō Hanaōgi)

Characterizations of women were Utamaro's great contribution to Japanese art. In the large head-portraits he executed, he used the hands and eyes of a sitter to indicate temperament. In this portrait of an unidentified courtesan, we can tell much about the woman's character. Her head juts forward in a determined way, revealing a long and well-groomed neck. Her hair is fashionably dressed with seven pins, her face plump, with resolute eyes set straight ahead. But it is perhaps her hands, tucked beneath the commanding obi, that reveal most—by not being visible.

Courtesans announced their profession by tying the obi in front. When sumptuary laws were passed to control the lavishness of clothes, obi were not mentioned, and they became a focal point of extravagance in dress. Creating the impression of great volume through the diagonal lines of the clothing, Utamaro has stressed this obi, which almost seems to precede its wearer. Its thick outline, detailed pattern, and color set it apart. We are left with a marked impression of the strength of this well-established courtesan, who does not need to reveal more of herself than her profession.