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The gold embroidery ornamenting this vest is known as "squalli" and is a specialty of textile artists in the cities of Fes and Tetouan. Historically the creation of metallic thread was fabricated in the city’s Jewish neighborhood, known as the mellah. Vests like these were worn under a jacket with a matching design, and were in fashion across North Africa. The design and pattern also has ties to Turkey, where the style probably originated.

Vest, Silk, cotton, metal wrapped thread; brocaded and embroidered

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