"Jolanthe"

Elizabeth Hawes created simple, witty, distinctive, elegant and practical garments for women of means. Her designs were so smart and timeless that they were as contemporary in the early 1930s as they were in the late 1940s due to her commitment to quality of materials and simplicity of line. She was committed to the notion that form follows function and paramount in her design sensibilities was the desire to make clothes that were stylish, easy to move in, and by incorporating breathable fabrics, easy to wear. Hawes focused on construction and comfort, rather than embellishment, and incorporated a variety of interesting fabric combinations and construction techniques, successfully using somewhat complex textural juxtapositions to create visual interest. Aspiring to follow in similar design techniques as Madeleine Vionnet, Hawes draped fabrics on the body and creatively pieced together wearable garments that were also beautiful works of art. Hawes’ philosophy toward fashion also shaped her aesthetic. She firmly believed there was a difference between fashion and style. Style, she declared, “is dressing to fit your own self – it lasts.” Hawes Inc. scrapbooks and designer sketchbooks, complete with style documentation and swatches, are part of the Brooklyn Museum Library’s collection. The latter are cross-referenced with many of Hawes’ garments. Taken as a whole, this material provides a remarkably comprehensive look at the work of an exceptional designer.

This dress strongly expresses Hawes' interest in Greek drapery. The treatment of the crepe back satin, pleated and gathered at the shoulders, makes for an elegant and simple evening garment. The self-covered buttons at the back add to the formality of the garments. The method in which the bodice is gathered just below the bust, extending into pleats, sewn at the shoulders and down the back, creates a silhouette similar to the Hellenistic chiton. The skirt falls gently from the high waist at the front and is pleated and gathered into a band below the waist, accented with self covered buttons. The result is that the back of the dress is much fuller and extends into a slight train. In addition, true to Hawes' form, she has lined the bodice with the satin face of the crepe back satin for the luxury and comfort of the wearer.