Design for a Pearl and Diamond Necklace

Drawing with a design for a pearl and diamond necklace, part of a modern scrapbook with 38 sheets showing designs for jewelry with pearls, diamonds and other (semi-)precious stones all done in watercolor and heightened with gold, characteristic of the period between 1870 and 1930, which saw some of the most extravagant and innovative trends in jewelry design. By the second half of the nineteenth century, the naturalistic compositions of earlier decades had become more complex, and the colors in nature mimicked by the color of gemstones used for jewelry design. In the last years of the century, designs for jewelry had become even more elaborate and relied in the natural beauty of cabochon gems, curving, and figurative designs with symbolic meaning, typical of the Arts and Crafts movement. Towards the end of the nineteenth and through the first decades of the twentieth century, diamond jewelry was re-interpreted to create the new 'garland style', and the Art Nouveau movement created sinuous and organic pieces that moved away from conventional stones and put emphasis on the subtle effects of materials such as glass, horn and enamel. During the 1920s, the economic boom following the war saw an increased glamour in jewelry design, with sharp, geometric patterns that celebrated modernity and the machine age. Art Deco jewelry is characterized by dense concentrations of gemstones and the use of platinum in place of gold, with inspiration from all over the world, especially from the Near and Far East. Like most of the drawings in the album, this design is fully rendered with gouache, showing not only the styles for the jewelry designs, but also suggesting choices of precious metals, stones, and other materials to be used in the creation of the jewels. It is also possible that these designs are real-sized, allowing the customer to visualize the jewel fully from this presentation drawings before commissioning its manufacture.

This design for a necklace is made up of a band with scrolls and small diamonds that would be worn around the neck and a pendant with a large rosette with pearls and stones, surrounded by smaller rosettes, and decorated with hanging teardrop shaped pearls. The rosette is made up of a central pearl and petals made up of small pearls and framed by diamonds, and is surrounded by smaller rosettes made of pearls of varying sizes with tiny petals that would have been made with metal. Three teardrop shaped pearls hang from the small rosettes in the bottom, also with small petals to be made out of metal. A string with alternating pearls and groups of small pearls hangs from the sides of the roundel, holding five small rosettes with a teardrop shaped pearls with tiny petals that hang from it.