Ensemble
With his reinterpretations of classic 1950s and 1960s tailoring, Thom Browne has revolutionized contemporary menswear. Ostensibly an emblem of conformity, the suit has served as the basis of the masculine wardrobe since the late seventeenth century. Through radically altered proportions, Browne has redefined the modern male silhouette and used the suit as a canvas for creative expression. This suit exemplifies the restrained aesthetic and meticulous cut and construction that define his work. Its design of cascading branches is the result of intricate hand piecing, a process the designer has referred to as intarsia, for its affinity with complex inlay work. The collection drew on motifs that have served as signifiers of Japan in the West (bamboo, cranes, samurai, and Mount Fuji), translating them into shades of gray—a signature of Browne’s modern uniform.
Artwork Details
- Title: Ensemble
- Designer: Thom Browne (American, born 1965)
- Date: spring/summer 2016
- Culture: American
- Medium: wool, cotton, silk, wood, mother-of-pearl, leather, metal
- Credit Line: Gift of Thom Browne, in honor of Harold Koda, 2016
- Object Number: 2016.255.1a–j
- Curatorial Department: The Costume Institute
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