Nobilis Femina Francica, Luctus nobilis feminae Francica, Nobilis Virgo aulica Francica

Designer Jean Jacques Boissard French
Engraver Julius Goltzius Netherlandish
Publisher Caspar Rutz Netherlandish

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Engraving, part of 'Habitus variarum orbis gentium' (Costumes of the various peoples of the world), representing the costumes of men and women from various parts of the world, engraved after designs by Boissard and published by Rutz in 1581.

This engraving represents a French noblewoman, a mourning French noblewoman, and a French damsel of the court. The first, on the left, wears a dress with a wide ruff, a bodice with a pattern of lozenges, and long, wide slit sleeves over long puff sleeves, trimmed with overlapping teardrop shapes on the shoulders. The lower edge of the bodice is decorated with a belt of alternating jeweled shuttle shapes and pearls, and a long, double-stranded necklace of the same kind hangs on her chest. Her hair is tied up, covered with a headdress, and her ears hold pendant pearl earrings.

On the center, the mourning noblewoman wears a hooded cloak over a full dress with long puff sleeves and train. A veil covers her chest, and the hood is placed on her head, leaving her face barely visible. Two tassels of fabric from the hood hang at the sides of her body. She holds a pair of gloves on her left hand.

On the right, the young lady of the court wears a full-skirted dress with jeweled brooch fastenings and a tight bodice with a chevron pattern. Long, slit sleeves, also with chevron patterns, are over long puff sleeves, trimmed with bows on the shoulders. A long ruff frames her face, surrounded by a jeweled necklace and two strands of pearls. Her hair is tied up and adorned with a cap with a large bundle of feathers. She holds a pair of gloves on her left hand.

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