Dress

This evening dress was designed by the famously elusive couturière Germain Krebs (commonly known as Madame Alix, and later Madame Grès). After her family discouraged pursuit of a career in dance or sculpture, Krebs likely entered the profession of dressmaking around 1924, through an apprenticeship at the French house of Premet. By 1933, she had opened her first couture house Alix-Barton, in collaboration with Julie Barton. Though this first partnership would dissolve the following year, Krebs continued to design uninterruptedly for over fifty years under the labels Alix (1934–42) and then Grès (1942–88). Across this change in names, clothing by Krebs maintained a consistency in approach. Her preferred working methodology was to drape and manipulate fabric directly on the figure, favoring materials with a distinct hand, such as the crisp stiffness of taffeta or the pliable drape of jersey. When using knit fabrics, she often employed relatively modern blends that combined silk with synthetic fibers such as Acetate or Viscose. This design was created during the early years of the Alix label, shortly after Krebs had learned to manipulate jersey. The twisted rolls of fabric that swathe the hips terminate in an elegant knot at the back of the skirt, recalling the bustle period of the late 19th century through a distinctly modern vantage.