Sweater

For her first collection in 1927, Elsa Schiaparelli designed several sporty sweaters that featured geometric motifs and trompe l'oeil bows, collars and cuffs. Her interest in Surrealism, particularly trompe l'oeil or objects that are not as they seem, would continue throughout her career. Each sweater was hand-knit using bold colors or black and white yarns that produced a mottled effect, foreshadowing her career-long interest in using visually interesting fabrics. The success of one particular sweater with a trompe l'oeil bowknot officially established her reputation in the fashion world as an artistic purveyor of chic who designed unconventional, unique clothing.

This eye-catching orange sweater, from a collection more than ten years later, shows Schiaparelli was continuing to provide knitwear for her clients. This particular example employs both trompe l'oeil elements and unusual buttons, both components featured in countless Schiaparelli designs. The twisted knit looks like Persian lamb fur, a play on texture, and creates trompe l'oeil fur cuffs and collar. The buttons, probably executed by Jean Clement or Roger Jean-Pierre, are emblazoned with "Schiap," an early example of the use of a logo for brand promotion.