a woven geometric pattern of predominantly green with some orange and beige threads
THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART BULLETIN | VOLUME 81 | NUMBER 2

Weaving Abstraction in Ancient and Modern Art

Candela, Iria and Joanne Pillsbury
2023
48 pages
56 illustrations
8.5 x 11 in
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Expanding the understanding of textile and fiber arts, this edition of the Bulletin features two distinct bodies of work that are intimately connected despite being separated by hundreds of years. Placing ancient Andean textiles from South America by unknown artists in conversation with works by global modern practitioners—such as Anni Albers, Sheila Hicks, Lenore Tawney, and Olga de Amaral—Weaving Abstraction in Ancient and Modern Art shows how both traditions harnessed the structure of the loom to create dynamic geometric designs. The 50 extraordinary pieces in this volume span over 2000 years and illustrate weaving’s complex and varied ways of conveying meaning, from stunning iconography to bold structural choices. In highlighting the aesthetic and cultural choices of both ancient and modern artists, this publication elevates textile arts beyond mere ornament to assert their role in the history of art past and present.

Textile Fragment, Chavín artist(s), Cotton, refined iron earth pigments, Chavin
Chavín artist(s)
4th–3rd century BCE
Border fragment, figures with staves, Camelid hair, Paracas
Paracas
4th–3rd century BCE
Border Fragment, Cotton, camelid hair, Paracas
Paracas
450–175 BCE
Headband, Nasca artist, Camelid fiber, Nasca
Nasca artist
6th–7th century
Headband with ornamental tassels, Nasca artist, Camelid hair, Nasca
Nasca artist
6th–8th century
Embroidered bag with fringe, Nasca artist, Camelid hair, Nasca
Nasca artist
7th century
Embroidered bag with fringe, Nasca artist, Camelid hair, Nasca
Nasca artist
7th century
Embroidered bag with fringe, Nasca artist, Camelid hair, Nasca
Nasca artist
7th century
Tapestry Tunic, Camelid wool, Wari
Wari
7th–9th century
Tunic, Cotton, camelid hair, Wari
Wari
7th–11th century
Feathered Panel, Feathers, cotton, camelid hair, Wari
Wari
600–900 CE
Miniature Dress, Ica artist, Cotton, feathers, Ica
Ica artist
12th–13th century
Man's Tunic, Camelid and cotton fibers, Central Coast
Central Coast
1000–1476 CE
Headcloth, Chancay artist(s), Cotton, Chancay
Chancay artist(s)
12th–15th century
Loincloth, Chimú artist(s), Cotton, camelid hair, Chimú
Chimú artist(s)
12th–15th century
Hanging, Chimú artist(s), Cotton, Chimú
Chimú artist(s)
12th–15th century
Crown, Lambayeque (Sicán) artist(s), Gold, Lambayeque (Sicán)
Lambayeque (Sicán) artist(s)
900–1100 CE
Tunic, Inca artist(s), Camelid fiber, Inca
Inca artist(s)
1400–1535 CE
Tunic, Chuquibamba artist, Camelid hair, cotton, Inca
Chuquibamba artist
1460–1540
Shirt, Central Coast artist, Camelid hair, cotton, Peru; central coast (?)
Central Coast artist
1460–1540
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Candela, Iria, and Joanne Pillsbury. 2023. “Weaving Abstraction in Ancient and Modern Art.” Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin.