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Suit

Design House House of Balmain French
Designer Oscar de la Renta American, born Dominican Republic
ca. 1991
Not on view
Mrs. Kempner's closets yielded a seemingly endless array of tailored suits. Many of the designs incorporated sartorial variations on iconic menswear elements: the spencer, the "Eisenhower" or blouson jacket, the double-breasted "gangster" suit, and the formal blazer. While acknowledging the virtues of traditional menswear, Mrs. Kempner was also an advocate of innovations of cut and detailing in her tailoring. The virtuosity of Balmain's jacket lapel incorporated into a seam to create a trompe l'oeil waistcoat or Saint Laurent's nautical ensemble that supplants a naval uniform's white duck with feminine cotton piqué suggests her interest in witty and novel details.

Artwork Details

Object Information
  • Title: Suit
  • Design House: House of Balmain (French, founded 1945)
  • Designer: Oscar de la Renta (American (born Dominican Republic), Santo Domingo 1932–2014 Kent, Connecticut)
  • Date: ca. 1991
  • Culture: French
  • Medium: a) wool, silk, plastic; b,c) wool, silk
  • Credit Line: Gift of Thomas L. Kempner, 2006
  • Object Number: 2006.420.67a–c
  • Curatorial Department: The Costume Institute
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Suit, Mainbocher  French and American, wool, silk, plastic (cellulose nitrate), American
Design House Mainbocher
Designer Mainbocher
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Evening dress, House of Balmain  French, silk, French
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Designer Pierre Balmain
fall/winter 1957–58
Violin or Viola Bow, Brazilwood, other materials, French
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late 19th or early 20th century

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