Silk, metal–wrapped thread; lampas (kemha); H. 63 1/2 in. (161.3 cm), W. 26 13/16 in. (68.1 cm)
Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1952 (52.20.17)
This lampas-woven fragment features large-scale leaves executed in the saz style. Made popular throughout Ottoman arts by Iranian émigré and court painter Shah Qulu during the reign of Süleyman the Magnificent (1520–66), the saz style found its way from the reed pen of the painters at the royal nakkaşhane (workshop) into contemporary textile design, in this case, characterized by central motifs with serrated edges outlined in a contrasting color. The lampas (kemha) weaving technique incorporates contrasting weave structures with two warps in different colors, creating solid areas of color on the surface of the cloth by floating the unincorporated warp threads in the back.