"From the Arabic"

Elizabeth Hawes created simple, witty, distinctive, elegant and practical garments for women of means. Her designs were so smart and timeless that they were as contemporary in the early 1930s as they were in the late 1940s due to her commitment to quality of materials and simplicity of line. She was committed to the notion that form follows function and paramount in her design sensibilities was the desire to make clothes that were stylish, easy to move in, and by incorporating breathable fabrics, easy to wear. Hawes focused on construction and comfort, rather than embellishment, and incorporated a variety of interesting fabric combinations and construction techniques, successfully using somewhat complex textural juxtapositions to create visual interest. Aspiring to follow in similar design techniques as Madeleine Vionnet, Hawes draped fabrics on the body and creatively pieced together wearable garments that were also beautiful works of art. Hawes’ philosophy toward fashion also shaped her aesthetic. She firmly believed there was a difference between fashion and style. Style, she declared, “is dressing to fit your own self – it lasts.” Hawes Inc. scrapbooks and designer sketchbooks, complete with style documentation and swatches, are part of the Brooklyn Museum Library’s collection. The latter are cross-referenced with many of Hawes’ garments. Taken as a whole, this material provides a remarkably comprehensive look at the work of an exceptional designer.

This dress, aptly titled "From the Arabic", shows Hawes' interest in other cultures. The non-traditional choice of fabric, typical of Hawes design aesthetic, is an Isamic-inspired textile. In creating this elegant evening ensemble, she has employed a beautiful lamé accented with boteh as the bodice of the dress and entire jacket. The detail at the center front of the bodice of the dress is a similar form to that of metal decorative ornaments from the same culture and it appears as if it catches the fabric of the halter-style bodice, creating a gathered effect. At the bottom of the appliqué, the skirt is tucked at either side of the point and gathered, creating a three-dimensional effect. The back of the dress is cutaway exposing much of the wearers back. According to the accession records the dress was originally designed with lacing for the back closure, yet the donor has applied buttons to suit her taste.