Conventionalized chrysanthemum textile

This highly abstract silk textile design reduces chrystanthemum blossoms to geometric, uniform shapes arranged in a tight, grid-like composition. Its pattern is likely derived from Japanese designs. The textile sample was part of a gift to the Met from Candace Wheeler's daughter, Dora Wheeler Keith, which included many textiles designed by Wheler and Associated Artists. However, it is unlikely that this sample was designed by Associated Artists. The firm rarely designed with this high degree of abstraction and the mark in the selvage, "hh of NY," does not appear on any fabric known to be designed by them. More likely, the fabric was used for a particular decorating project. Its complex weave and pattern could indicate that it is not even of American manufacture.