Jimbaori with shokko diaper pattern of dragons, phoenix birds, and stylized "Chinese flowers"
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The jimbaori is a sleeveless short coat that was worn over armor in Held campaigns by the Japanese military elite, beginning in the second half of the sixteenth century. The center slit in the back allowed for the wearer's long sword. A layer of stiffening material between the brocade and the lining maintained the coat's shape.
The shokko lattice of repeated alternating patterns encloses auspicious motifs: dragons, phoenix birds, and "Chinese flower" (karahana) designs. According to ancient Chinese Taoist thought, the imaginary phoenix bird dwelt on the Isle of the Immortals, where it inhabited paulownia trees, ate seeds of bamboo, and lived a long life. The fabulous dragon, too, was auspicious, having the power to live in water, fly through the air, cause rain and clouds to appear, and set off lightning. A circular dragon motif was often used for the Emperor's clothing. The Chinese lattice device came to Japan from Ming-period (1368–1644) China, where it was especially popular among monks and the military elite. Its design, likened to a shell of a tortoise, symbolized longevity.
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