Sautoir
Marcus and Co. American
This superb sautoir, consisting of a multi-strand gold foxtail-link chain and a large pendant opal, is marked by the New York firm of Marcus & Co., whose reputation at its prime rivaled that of Tiffany & Co. Herman Marcus (1828–99), a German–born and Dresden–trained jeweler, arrived in New York in 1850 and worked for a number of prestigious firms before establishing Marcus & Co. in 1892. Following his death, the company continued under the direction of his two sons, George Elder Marcus and William Marcus. The magnificent drop-shaped black opal, with its textured surface and striations, is enclosed in a surround of enameled gold iris blossoms and leaves that continues onto the back of the pendant. This inventive design reflects the Arts & Crafts aesthetic and parallels the naturalistic work of Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848–1933).
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