Evening coat

First established in the 1890s by the four Callot sisters as a lingerie and lace business, Callot Soeurs evolved into a premier dressmaking house in the early years of the 20th century. As with other garments from Callot Soeurs in the Brooklyn Museum collection, this example incorporates signature design elements of the house: multi-cultural inspiration and exceptional decorative trimming of the highest quality. In this example, the overall silhouette of the garment and the placement of the trim are similar to caftans worn in the Middle East. The subtle combination glossy black horsehair and matte black braid, however, replaces what would have been lavish gold embroidery on an authentic caftan. The designs and ornaments of Callot garments often draw on multi-cultural sources, but always in a subtle manner adapted for a fashionable Parisian clientele.