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Summer Robe (Katabira) with Kemari Balls and Willow

Japan

Not on view

Light garments made of bast fibers were most suitable for summer. This unlined robe was designed with long sleeves for a young, unmarried commoner (chōnin) woman, probably in Kyoto. The cascading branches of a weeping willow provide the structure of the composition, to which scattered chrysanthemums and clematis flowers were added, along with kemari balls that appear to be suspended in the air. Accents of couched gold thread suggest sunshine. Courtiers played kemari, a game somewhat like soccer, beginning in the Heian period (794–1185); the aim is to keep the soft leather ball aloft only by kicking.

Summer Robe (Katabira) with Kemari Balls and Willow, Plain-weave ramie with paste-resist dyeing, stencil-dyed dots (suri-bitta), hand-painted details, and couched gold thread, Japan

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