Woman's Ceremonial Robe
Not on view
Many imperial costumes were lined or trimmed with luxurious sable, ermine, mink, or fox fur. This robe, however, is trimmed with cat fur, a less expensive material that displays similar characteristics to its finer counterparts. Sericin, a gelatinous protein covering two fibroins of silk thread, is water-soluble. However, only a small portion dissolves in hot water during the reeling process, making the fabric stiff and dull. To develop luster, the turquoise silk yarns were fully degummed before weaving. Cat fur is circular/oval transversally with a concentric medulla. Longitudinally, the medulla is uniserial ladder-shaped in fine hair but more complex in guard hair. The scale pattern of cat fur is imbricate and prominent.
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