Date: early 1620s

Culture: French

Medium: silk

Dimensions: Length at CB: 19 3/4 in. (50.2 cm)

Credit Line: The Costume Institute Fund, in memory of Polaire Weissman, 1989

Accession Number: 1989.196


This extraordinary doublet is one of just two surviving examples of its type from the 1620s, the other being in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. It represents a fashion that enjoyed only the briefest vogue. Made of a luxurious silk brocade, it is embellished with pinking and decorative slits. Pinking, or the intentional slashing of fabric, was a popular decorative technique used to reveal the shirt, chemise, or colorful linings underneath. It is possible that this particular garment was constructed from silk previously pinked for another use, as the pattern created does not exactly follow the actual cut of the garment.