Underdress
The extraordinary decadal morphing of dress forms in the nineteenth century begins in the late 1810s with the shift away from the essentially columnar, high-waisted shapes that characterized the Napoleonic period. By the 1820s the corseted waist shifted from the previous Empire line directly under the bust to a lower point at the mid-ribcage. Simultaneously, sleeves began to balloon into the gigot, or leg-of-mutton, puff together with a similar expansion of the skirt into a full bell shape.
As the volume of the skirt increased in the 1830s, the hemline retreated, ultimately to a point slightly above the ankles-promenade dresses in the 1770s were similarly revealing of the lower leg. This fashion, with its sudden emphasis on the feet and ankles, precipitated a range of increasingly decorative stocking designs. This relatively unornamented dress, its crochet lace inserts appearing only discretely at the shoulder line, might therefore have been worn with hose, also white, embellished with similar lacelike openwork. A wide belt with a gilt buckle would have introduced further visual interest to the ensemble.
As the volume of the skirt increased in the 1830s, the hemline retreated, ultimately to a point slightly above the ankles-promenade dresses in the 1770s were similarly revealing of the lower leg. This fashion, with its sudden emphasis on the feet and ankles, precipitated a range of increasingly decorative stocking designs. This relatively unornamented dress, its crochet lace inserts appearing only discretely at the shoulder line, might therefore have been worn with hose, also white, embellished with similar lacelike openwork. A wide belt with a gilt buckle would have introduced further visual interest to the ensemble.
Artwork Details
- Title: Underdress
- Date: ca. 1835
- Culture: American
- Medium: cotton
- Credit Line: Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 2006
- Object Number: 2006.29.2
- Curatorial Department: The Costume Institute
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American or European
1830s
Mme. Grapanche
1884–86
American
1860–65
American
1820–25
American
ca. 1822
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