Oorijzer decorative coif frame

Delicately worked in gold filigree with enamel and pearls, these elements are components of a distinctly Dutch type of head ornament, called an "oorijzer" (literally, "ear-iron"). Worn by women since at least the seventeenth century, these were frames that were initially purely functional and all but hidden, used to hold fabric coifs, or caps, in place. However, by the later eighteenth century, the pointed ends of the frames, sitting snugly against the wearer's cheeks or temples, became increasingly more conspicuous and decorative. Different regions in The Netherlands favored different designs; also in The Met's collection are two very characteristic examples both from Zeeland (1970.81.1c and 1970.81.2c). This much more ornate example comes from the north of the country, Friesland, and incorporates six separate elements, including two spiked hair pins; the rectangular ornaments which thread onto the pins, to be positioned hear the wearer's ears, are traditionally called "boeken" (literally, "books") in Dutch.