Hat

The overall shape illustrates the transition from the early cloche of 1917 introduced by Lucie Hamar, which had a high crown, flat top and wide brim, to what would become the classic cloche of the 1920s, characterized by a round close-fitting crown which may or may not have included a small brim. The rigid structure is balanced by the use of sheer horsehair expertly manipulated into fine curves and scallops. The minimalist Art Deco rhinestone bar ornament is particularly indicative of the 1920s and is a marked contrast to the profusion of heavy trimmings popular in the 1910s.

Worn in the spring or summer for afternoon garden parties, the refined craftsmanship, characteristic shape and subdued color reflect the high social standing and elegance of the woman for whom it was made, Mrs. Grace Anna Goodhue Coolidge. Wife of politician John Calvin Coolidge, Jr., who would eventually become President of the United States (1923-1929), Mrs. Coolidge was famed for her style, social grace, hospitality and political activity.