Textile

This object is from a collection of sample embroideries, which was originally owned by Morris de Camp Crawford, editor of Women's Wear Daily, who collected objects which told the story of fashion and fabric history. Included in this collection was a group of textiles which illustrated what American and French designers and manufacturers were using. According to Crawford's book The Ways of Fashion, the work of Polish artist Sarah Lipska (1882-1973) was represented in this collection. Lipska is an enigmatic figure, who is known to have worked with Leon Bakst as a set and costume designer for the Ballets Russes, and later in the 1920s as a fashion designer in Paris at 4 rue Belloni, and finally as a sculptor. Extant examples of her work are rare. Although only a few pieces in the Brooklyn Museum collection bear a label or a signature, others bear hallmarks of her work, such as a distinctive form of whip stitching on appliqué work, unusual abstract motifs, and Cubist-inspired patterns.

Although it is not known what this textile was made for, it is very typical of the work on dresses produced by the couture house Myrbor. A similar leaf motif is seen on another Myrbor creation in the Brooklyn Museum collection (see 2009.300.3248). It is probable that Lipska did work for the couture house, or this example could be her interpretation of the motif for her own house. Elements of her hand evidenced in this piece are the distinctive widely spaced whip stitch used to apply the colorful leaf appliqués and the motif's overall stylized character.