SARAH JESSICA PARKER: Armor has always followed fashion. These splendid sixteenth-century elements, however, also display wit and incredible virtuosity. Notice how the artist—probably the German master Kolman Helmschmid—was able to reproduce the properties of soft fabric in hard steel. The pieces here are defenses for the wearer’s upper and lower back and arms. They follow the fashionable silhouette of the period: the billowing sleeves, slender waist, and buttock-hugging garment known as upper hose.

The etched and gilded decoration covering the surface represents slashing. This was a peculiar style of dress in which the fabric was cut to reveal another textile underneath. The two fabrics were often of different colors, for maximum effect. The armor maker achieved this effect by contrasting plain and decorated surfaces.

Beginning in the 1500s, the Renaissance ideal of nobility required a display of magnificence, what we might call conspicuous consumption. This costly suit would have been worn only for processions and other courtly ceremonies. Nevertheless, it retains practical details as part of the design. For example, the edge of the neckline is roped and turned outward. This would have prevented an enemy's weapon from sliding off the backplate and into the neck. Every element of a person’s costume—including armor—expressed the wearer’s social status. For example, slashing was a hugely significant fashion all across Europe.

To hear Chris Paulocik, conservator, talk about this peculiar and long-lived style, please press PLAY.