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Over Robe (Uchikake) with Fans and Flowers

second half 18th–first half 19th century
On view at The Met Fifth Avenue in Gallery 230
Uchikake over robes, such as this example, were worn by high-ranking samurai women during the Edo period for formal occasions. The padded outer garments, lined with cotton, were worn in autumn and spring over layers of kosode. Uchikake worn by young women often feature a vibrant red ground enlivened by boldly arranged floral motifs that alternate with non-floral designs. Here, luxuriant bouquets of peonies, chrysanthemums, and cascading wisteria are interspersed with Chinese fans and colorful butterflies—symbols of beauty, longevity, and seasonal renewal. The decoration combines shiroage (white reserve created by paste resist), kanoko tie-dye, hand painting, and richly varied silk- and metallic-thread embroidery. The ground fabric is itself woven with chrysanthemums, orchids, and a geometric key-fret pattern, adding further visual complexity.

Artwork Details

Object Information
  • 紅綸子地唐扇花束模様打掛
  • Title: Over Robe (Uchikake) with Fans and Flowers
  • Period: Edo period (1615–1868)
  • Date: second half 18th–first half 19th century
  • Culture: Japan
  • Medium: Figured satin-weave silk with tie-dyeing, silk embroidery, and couched gold thread
  • Dimensions: Overall: 66 x 48 in. (167.6 x 121.9 cm)
  • Classification: Costumes
  • Credit Line: Purchase, Seymour Fund, Mrs. Donald Oenslager Gift and Gifts in memory of Gertrude Carp, 1988
  • Object Number: 1988.165
  • Curatorial Department: Asian Art
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