Robe (Kosode) with Floral Roundels

Around the 1660s, the eccentric designs and fashion choices that were popular among rebelling youth turned into elaborate patterns for women’s kosode (a robe with small sleeve openings, the precursor of the modern kimono). These garments became known as Kanbun kosode, after the era in which they flourished (1661–1673). They can be characterized by bold colors and large, asymmetrical patterns concentrated on the back of the garment, typically arranged into a dynamic composition designed to flow from one shoulder to the hem. The most daring and eye-catching kosode were worn by young, cross-dressing and genderfluid men called wakashu.

This kosode’s bold design consists of an asymmetrical array of large floral roundels, only one of which is shown in its entirety. Each roundel consists of a large wood sorrel (katabami)—a symbol of abundance and wealth—that has a trefoil leaf (similar to clover). Each leaf is depicted in refined tie-dyeing (kanoko shibori). The central sorrel motif is surrounded by a black ring, which is filled with small-sized wood sorrel leaves executed in variously colored silk embroidery and with gold thread couching. One of the roundels emphasizes the left shoulder, another the lower back, and the third one is depicted on the front left flap. A very partial one at the opening of the right sleeve is a sophisticated way to accentuate the movements of the right hand. While the robe’s composition seems to be simple, it is very well designed and adjusted to the movements of its wearer. Kanbun kosode represent a significant turning point in Japanese fashion – the development of daring, asymmetrical designs concentrated on the back of the garment. The sweeping curves, large patterns, and new vocabulary of designs transformed the world of kosode and gave way to whole-garment decoration and unified, dynamic compositions. This kosode was adjusted and mended several times throughout its 350-year history. One of the major changes was the shortening of its long, fluttering furisode sleeves which were characteristic of wakashu robes.