Surcoat (Jinbaori)
Returned to lender
This work of art was on loan to the museum and has since been returned to its lender.This sleeveless surcoat (jinbaori) was designed to be worn over armor. It is decorated with chrysanthemum flowers, which represent longevity. The front opening is lined with gold brocade decorated with dragonflies (kachi-mushi), a motif popular among warriors, as dragonflies always fly straight ahead, never backward. As such, they became associated with victory and bravery.
The text is embroidered over an ink underdrawing to imitate manuscript writing. The poetic inscription, perhaps added at a later date, is rendered in a mixture of highly cursive Chinese characters and characters that are read phonetically (sōgana). It reads:
Saki-idete
katsu-iro miseyo
After bursting into bloom
show your triumphant colors
—Trans. John T. Carpenter
The text is embroidered over an ink underdrawing to imitate manuscript writing. The poetic inscription, perhaps added at a later date, is rendered in a mixture of highly cursive Chinese characters and characters that are read phonetically (sōgana). It reads:
Saki-idete
katsu-iro miseyo
After bursting into bloom
show your triumphant colors
—Trans. John T. Carpenter
Artwork Details
- 和歌菊花散陣羽織
- Title: Surcoat (Jinbaori)
- Artist: Unidentified artist
- Period: Edo period (1615–1868)
- Date: late 18th–early 19th century
- Culture: Japan
- Medium: Embroidered inscription in silk on silk satin with supplementary weft patterning; lining of woven hemp stenciled in gold leaf and indigo dye
- Dimensions: 43 5/16 × 25 9/16 in. (110 × 65 cm)
- Classification: Costumes
- Credit Line: Lent by John C. Weber Collection
- Curatorial Department: Asian Art