Vest
The circular shape of this jacket was first presented during the Maison Martin Margiela spring/summer 2002 collection, which consisted of three groups of garments: circular, folded and cut. These three phases were an exploration of different techniques that combined Eastern notions of dress and construction (flatness, circularity, abstraction of the body) with Western tailoring staples (tuxedo jackets, trench coats). The circle-shaped garments were created by either constructing the garment from new materials or reconstructing vintage existing garments in the form of a circle.
The white, numbered label (0-23) refers to the type of collection, in this case, the 0 is circled: this refers to the ‘Artisanal’ line, for which the concept was “Garments remodeled by hand for women,” indicating the handmade status and use of repurposed materials.The indication of the handwork alludes to the time that went into the production of the garment, expressing the “slow” approach of the house in comparison with fast fashion labels. The combination of the handwork, typical for haute couture, with the humble materials of which the jacket is made, is a deconstruction of accepted ideas about haute couture preciosity. The garment transgresses these notions by being handmade from discarded materials, quietly stating that what sets haute couture apart from throwaway fashion is not determined by the opulence of the material but by the human hand and the time spent working on the garment.
The white, numbered label (0-23) refers to the type of collection, in this case, the 0 is circled: this refers to the ‘Artisanal’ line, for which the concept was “Garments remodeled by hand for women,” indicating the handmade status and use of repurposed materials.The indication of the handwork alludes to the time that went into the production of the garment, expressing the “slow” approach of the house in comparison with fast fashion labels. The combination of the handwork, typical for haute couture, with the humble materials of which the jacket is made, is a deconstruction of accepted ideas about haute couture preciosity. The garment transgresses these notions by being handmade from discarded materials, quietly stating that what sets haute couture apart from throwaway fashion is not determined by the opulence of the material but by the human hand and the time spent working on the garment.
Artwork Details
- Title: Vest
- Design House: Maison Margiela (French, founded 1988)
- Designer: Martin Margiela (Belgian, born 1957)
- Date: ca. 2009
- Culture: French
- Medium: leather, metal
- Credit Line: Gift of Estate of Jean Stein, 2017
- Object Number: 2017.690.6
- Curatorial Department: The Costume Institute
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