Jacket

Design House Wild & Lethal Trash French
Designer Walter Van Beirendonck Belgian
spring/summer 1996
Not on view
Walter Van Beirendonck's inflatable "He-Man" torso jacket was shown as part of his Killer / Astral Travel / 4D-Hi-D collection for spring/summer 1996, which was a powerful statement against the ravage caused by the AIDS epidemic. The collection came out under the label "W.&L.T.," or Wild & Lethal Trash, in collaboration with the denim brand Mustang. The motto for these youthful collections was "Kiss The Future," a concept translated in high-tech materials, bright colors and cartoonish graphics, appropriated from rave culture. Van Beirendonck contrasted childlike references with exaggerated masculine aggressive characteristics, symbolizing how the AIDS epidemic created violence through innocent love and sexuality. The use of plastics referred to latex and safe sex as ways to prevent infection with the HIV virus.
Van Beirendonck describes fashion as a mutilation, or a process of making constant changes to the body: by blowing the male torso out of proportion, he creates a camp deflation of masculinity, worn on the body.

Artwork Details

Object Information
  • Title: Jacket
  • Design House: Wild & Lethal Trash (Belgian, founded 1993)
  • Designer: Walter Van Beirendonck (Belgian, born 1957)
  • Date: spring/summer 1996
  • Culture: Belgian
  • Medium: plastic (polyvinyl chloride)
  • Credit Line: Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2020
  • Object Number: 2020.40
  • Curatorial Department: The Costume Institute

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