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Over Robe (Uchikake) with Bamboo and Folded-Paper Butterflies

Japan

Not on view

Fretwork, chrysanthemums, and orchids decorate the ground fabric of this white over robe, which was worn by a wealthy merchant-class bride. It is embroidered with gold bamboo stalks—a symbol of resilience and vitality—that reach from the hem to the neck. Another embroidered and tie-died motif on the robe represents noshi, the folded-paper decoration traditionally attached to gifts and sake bottles as a token of good luck. Designed in the shape of butterflies, these noshi allude to a long marriage. Their distinctive folds distinguish the insects as male and female, symbolizing the new couple. Several noshi are executed in tiny kanoko (fawn spot) tie-dyeing, an expensive, labor-intensive technique. Other symbols of longevity, such as turtles, pines, cranes, and plum blossoms decorate them.

Over Robe (Uchikake) with Bamboo and Folded-Paper Butterflies, Figured satin-weave silk (rinzu) with tie-dyeing, silk embroidery, and couched gold thread, Japan

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