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Over Robe (Uchikake) with Bamboo and Folded-Paper Butterflies

first half 19th century

Not on view

Fretwork, chrysanthemums, and orchids decorate the ground fabric of this white over robe, which was worn by a wealthy merchant-class bride. It is embroidered with gold bamboo stalks—a symbol of resilience and vitality—that reach from the hem to the neck. Another embroidered and tie-died motif on the robe represents noshi, the folded-paper decoration traditionally attached to gifts and sake bottles as a token of good luck. Designed in the shape of butterflies, these noshi allude to a long marriage. Their distinctive folds distinguish the insects as male and female, symbolizing the new couple. Several noshi are executed in tiny kanoko (fawn spot) tie-dyeing, an expensive, labor-intensive technique. Other symbols of longevity, such as turtles, pines, cranes, and plum blossoms decorate them.

Over Robe (Uchikake) with Bamboo and Folded-Paper Butterflies, Figured satin-weave silk (rinzu) with tie-dyeing, silk embroidery, and couched gold thread, Japan — This image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

Over Robe (Uchikake) with Bamboo and Folded-Paper Butterflies, Figured satin-weave silk (rinzu) with tie-dyeing, silk embroidery, and couched gold thread, Japan

Over Robe (Uchikake) with Bamboo and Folded-Paper Butterflies, Figured satin-weave silk (rinzu) with tie-dyeing, silk embroidery, and couched gold thread, Japan

This artwork is meant to be viewed from right to left. Scroll left to view more.

This image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

This image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

白綸子地竹蝶熨斗模様打掛

Title: Over Robe (Uchikake) with Bamboo and Folded-Paper Butterflies

Period: Edo period (1615–1868)

Date: first half 19th century

Culture: Japan

Medium: Figured satin-weave silk (rinzu) with tie-dyeing, silk embroidery, and couched gold thread

Dimensions: 68 1/2 × 51 1/2 in. (174 × 130.8 cm)

Classification: Costumes

Credit Line: Lent by John C. Weber Collection

The Met

Asian Art at The Met

The Met's collection of Asian art—more than 35,000 objects, ranging in date from the third millennium B.C. to the twenty-first century—is one of the largest and most comprehensive in the world.