Jacket

Worn by the inimitable Millicent Rogers, this jacket was designed for Schiaparelli's spring 1938 collection. The silhouette, particularly the curved seaming of the back, is reminiscent of the spencer jacket worn in the early 19th century. The buttons and the dense cord embroidery are an example of Schiaparelli's desire to use trim and decoration that was unusual. Schiaparelli forewent using traditional closures, such as hooks and eyes, concealed zippers or regular sized buttons. Instead, she used more artistic options, sometimes in recognizable forms, such as tree trunks or mermaids, other times simply oversized irregular forms, such as the buttons on this jacket. The cord is also particularly large, and not at all delicate, a subtle but intentional design detail. A belt in the Brooklyn Museum collection, also worn by Rogers, has a clasp identical to the buttons of this jacket (see 2009.300.3518) proving this jacket was designed as part of an ensemble.