Coverlet

This dark blue indigo wool and undyed white cotton double cloth coverlet is woven in one wide panel with two sets of warps and two sets of wefts, creating an identical pattern on both sides with the two colors reversed. It features six large floral medallions in the center, and edges are surrounded by a border of eagles, with stars and three leaf clovers above them. The eagles alternate with spired buildings and two Masonic columns surmounted by globes and the traditional Masonic square and compass symbol. In between the large motifs, there are tiny repeating figures of a goat, a man in a top hat, and a monkey in the traditional pose of the spinning monkey. The monkey and goat sit at the feet of the eagles on the narrow ends, and the small man appears at the bottom of the Masonic columns on the long ends. The name "MARY KEATOR" the woman for whom the coverlet was made, is woven four times across the head and foot ends of the coverlet, both forward and reverse. All four corners have the woven inscription: AGRICUL/ TURE & MAN/ UFACTURES/ ARE THE FOUND/ ATION OF/ OUR INDE/ PENDENCE./ JULY 4. 1829


The coverlet’s design, commonly known as the "Agriculture & Manufactures" pattern, was one of the most popular found in the neighboring counties of Orange, Dutchess, Ulster, and Delaware in mid-New York State. Several variations of the design are known, which generally fall into three categories. At first glance, this coverlet seems nearly identical to two other examples in the Museum’s collection: 25.127 and 67.33. However, all three have pattern variations that are due to individual weavers changing the pre-punched manufactured cards that, when attached to the loom, helped create the pattern. These changes may have been made in order to identify or "brand" the coverlets to their particular workshop. The group that our new acquisition falls into are for the most part dated between 1825 and 1830, and are distinguished by the appearance of the three small figures (monkey, goat and man) hidden in the borders. The names found on this type of coverlet have usually been traced to Dutchess County. However, Mary Keator (d.1851), the first owner of this coverlet, lived her whole life in Roxbury, Delaware County, NY. This points to several possible conclusions—either Mary had her coverlet made in relatively far-off Dutchess County, or the original weaver of the small figured coverlets let another weaver copy his cards, or he gave his cards to a Delaware County weaver, or moved to Delaware County himself. No matter what the circumstances, it is a boon to the American Wing textile collection that we now have examples of all three variations of this iconic early nineteenth century New York coverlet design.