Ceremonial textile (pua)

This finely woven ceremonial textile is constructed from two similarly ikat patterned and dyed panels that feature measured patterning in a classically-drawn design that spreads out to populate the surface of the textile. Tight tendril-like motifs relate to woven works such as basketry and woven mats–and possibly derive from, or at least are strongly influenced by, classical Indian petola designs. Unique, interesting designs on each border are unusual for their incorporation of a series of single figures (slightly off-set from each other) and create a dramatic border that flanks the central panel. The white, deep ‘blood’-red and black ikat yarns are handspun, as are the black, blue and white side stripes; there is a very small amount of light-red in the border stripes, which are machine-spun. The designs in the center and in the trio of patterned side stripes are created by black, white and red warp ikat. These areas are both flanked and separated by groups of single color stripes of differing widths.

The culture and spirituality of the Iban people is interwoven with the natural environment of Borneo, an island the Iban have inhabited for many generations. The genre of pua is the woven textile most readily associated with the Iban. The dyeing and preparation of textiles is highly ritualized in Iban society and the finished textiles–with their figurative motifs–are used to convey cultural and spiritual teachings. In this respect, both the process and the finished cloth are among the Iban’s most cherished cultural practices.