Day Trip to Bursa

Left: The tomb of Mehmed I, part of the Green Complex (1419–21) in Bursa. Right: Mihrab niche of the Green Complex. Photographs by Walter B. Denny

«Today we had to get up early to catch a seaplane to Bursa, the first Ottoman capital and city, which is about 250 kilometers south of Istanbul.»

Highlights of the trip were the monuments from the early Ottoman times (from the fourteenth to the fifteenth century), when the artistic tastes of Persia and Central Asia adjusted to the demands of the Ottomans, then the rising Turkish dynasty and new patrons of the Eastern Mediterranean. Among these monuments was the Green Complex (1419–21)—built by Mehmed I (r. 1403–1421)—a chef d'oeuvre for cuerda seca and gilded tile decoration, spectacular marble and wood carving, and wall paint, which is not often preserved in Ottoman architecture.

For lunch, we were served Iskender Kebap (Alexander the Great's grilled meat), topped with the traditional yogurt, with chestnut confit and Turkish coffee for dessert. In the afternoon, we visited the Great Mosque, which is known to be the largest mosque in Turkey and is famous for its many columns.

As it was in Ottoman times, Bursa is still a renowned silk depot. We thus spent the greater part of the afternoon at the old silk bazaar, where one can shop for the most beautiful silks; all kinds of qualities and designs are available.