Uçetek Entari and Shalvar

Women’s dress in the Ottoman Empire typically consisted of three main elements, a chemise or gömlek, a long robe, or entari, and baggy trousers, or şalvar. This entari and şalvar comprise two elements of the ensemble of a fashionable Ottoman woman (the two pieces might not have been originally part of the same outfit as dealers could assemble outfits from the pieces they acquired separately, although in this case, there is a close correspondence in color palette and trim between the two pieces). The deep purple color of the entari is a shade that became extremely popular in Europe with the 1856 invention of a synthetic dye used to create a color known as mauveine. The purple silk fabric has a different weave structure than silks woven in Ottoman workshops, suggesting that it was imported from a foreign source. While only scientific analysis can determine the exact dye process, the use of the color indicates an awareness on the part of the wearer of current fashions.

The entari is constructed along traditional lines, open down the front, with long sleeves open until the elbow and high slits at each side. It closed at the bodice with four buttons and loops. The lower part of the sleeves are lined with the same fabric used on the garment exterior, and the outside edges are faced with a dark red fabric, a blend of silk and cotton. The rest of the entari is lined in white cotton. All of the garment’s edges are trimmed with an intricate knotted braid made of metallic gold thread.

The şalvar of a different but visually related fabric of purple silk with a design of alternating vertical bands comprised of floral or geometric elements executed in extra weft metal-wrapped thread are oversize. A cotton muslin fabric was used at the waist and bottom of each leg, with ties to gather the excess width to fit the wearer. The long legs would have been tied below the knee to allow the şalvar legs to billow gracefully around the ankles. Metallic gold braid trims the hip level pocket openings on each side and the waist.