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The Robert Lehman Collection. Vol. 14, European Textiles

The Robert Lehman Collection. Vol. 14, European Textiles

Mayer Thurman, Christa C.
2001
300 pages
371 illustrations
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Robert Lehman and his father, Philip Lehman, purchased textiles with the same well-trained eyes they used to acquire paintings, drawings, and decorative arts in general. This volume catalogues the more than 250 textiles and objects made of fabric that were part of Robert Lehman's bequest to The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1975. Many of these textiles were used as hangings, covers, or upholstery to embellish the Lehmans' elegant town house in Manhattan. They represent sixty-five years of assembling, owning, and living with historic fabrics on a day-to-day basis, and for scholars and laymen alike they document an American style of living and interior decoration that has largely disappeared.

Among the most distinguished and historically significant objects in the Robert Lehman Collection are four large tapestries, including the Last Supper after Bernaert van Orley that is arguably the finest Renaissance tapestry in an American collection, and two series of embroidered roundels from fifteenth-century Flanders that illustrate episodes from the lives of Saint Martin and Saint Catherine of Alexandria. The Collection also includes a great number of ecclesiastical vestments and panels of magnificent silks and velvets in a vast array of techniques and styles that span six centuries.

Christa C. Mayer Thurman, one of the foremost authorities in the field, is the Christa C. Mayer Thurman Curator of Textiles and Textiles Conservator at the Art Institute of Chicago. Her thorough analysis of the Lehman holdings makes a significant contribution to scholarship in European textiles. A number of comparative illustrations supplement the catalogue entries, and the volume includes a glossary, a bibliography, and an index.

Met Art in Publication

Emperor Vespasian Cured by Veronica's Veil, Wool, silk, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in slit, dovetailed, and double interlocking tapestry weave., Flemish, Brussels
Flemish, Brussels
ca. 1510
The Falcon Hunt, Wool, and silk in slit tapestry weave with some non-horizontal or eccentric wefts., Southern Netherlands
Southern Netherlands
ca. 1500–1530
The Hunters Enter the Woods (from the Unicorn Tapestries), Wool warp, wool, silk, silver, and gilt wefts, French (cartoon)/South Netherlandish (woven)
French (cartoon)/South Netherlandish (woven)
1495–1505
The Hunters Return to the Castle (from the Unicorn Tapestries), Wool warp with wool, silk, silver, and gilt wefts, French (cartoon)/South Netherlandish (woven)
French (cartoon)/South Netherlandish (woven)
1495–1505
Falconer with Two Ladies, a Page, and a Foot Soldier, Wool warp;  wool and silk wefts, South Netherlandish
South Netherlandish
ca. 1500–1530
The Holy Family, Wool, silk, and gilt- and silvered-metal-strip-wrapped silk in slit, dovetailed, and interlocking tapestry weave with supplementary brocading wefts (in sewing basket, Joseph's coat, and hem of Mary's cloak), Flemish, Southern Netherlands
Flemish, Southern Netherlands
ca. 1500
The Last Supper, Bernard van Orley  Netherlandish, Wool, silk, silver-gilt thread.
ca. 1525–28
Border, Wool and linen, with highlights in silk, in tapestry weave, Flemish
Flemish
ca. 1570–99
Border, Wool and linen, with highlights in silk, in tapestry weave, Flemish
Flemish
last third 16th century
Cushion Cover with Coats of Arms, Linen, wool, and silk in a slit tapestry weave; Backing: cotton weft-float and silk in slit tapestry weave; Cord edging: wool z ply, Northern Germany, probably Hamburg
Northern Germany, probably Hamburg
1600–1650
Cushion Cover with "Scent", Linen, silk, and wool in dovetailed tapestry weave; Backing: rayon and cotton warp-faced weft-ribbed pa;in weave, moiré; modern, Northern Netherlands
Northern Netherlands
mid-17th century
Border Fragment, Tapestry weave in wool with highlights in off-white silk.  Modern yellow and brown guards., Flanders
Flanders
17th century
Border Fragment, Tapestry weave in wool with highlights in off-white silk.  Modern brown and off-white guard, Italy or France
Italy or France
17th or 18th century
Two border fragments, Tapestry weave in wool with highlights in off-white silk.  Modern light yellow woven tape on b, France or the Netherlands
France or the Netherlands
17th or 18th century
The Adoration of the Magi, Linen and cotton plain weave underlaid with linen plain weave and embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in bullion, split, and stem stitches, laid work, couching, and couching padded with cotton (couched with linen).  Underdrawing and wash in sepia ink.  Edging: hemp plain weave, Italian
Italian
late 14th century
The Annunciation, Silk, cotton, and metallic threads, Italian
Italian
ca. 1330–40
Presentation in the Temple, Silk on canvas, Italian
Italian
14th century
Christ  Among the Doctors, Workshop of Geri Lapi  Italian, Silk on canvas, Italian
14th century
The baptism of Christ, Silk on linen, Italian
Italian
14th century
The Flagellation, Silk and metallic threads on linen, Italian
Italian
mid-14th century
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Citation

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Mayer-Thurman, Christa Charlotte. 2001. European Textiles. The Robert Lehman Collection 14. New York Princeton (N. J.): Metropolitan Museum Princeton university press.