Fragmentary Loom Width with Ogival Pattern

Object Name: Fragment

Date: ca. 1570–80

Geography: Turkey, probably Istanbul

Culture: Islamic

Medium: Silk, metal wrapped thread; lampas (kemha)

Dimensions: Textile: L. 75 in. (190.5 cm)
W. 26 in. (66 cm)
Mount: L. 56 3/8 in. (143.2 cm)
W. 30 3/4 in. (78.1 cm)
D. 1 in. (2.5 cm)
Wt. 36 lbs. (16.3 kg)

Classification: Textiles-Woven

Credit Line: Anonymous Gift, 1949

Accession Number: 49.32.79a–y


This lampas silk textile depicts an elegant spray of carnations, irises and tulips within a feather-edged medallion. The ribbon-like ogival lattice harbors rosebuds and tulips in alternating colors. The unusual combination of eggplant purple, deepened by a dark brown warp, is contrasted with gold-wrapped weft threads for an elegant effect. Based on the pattern of the cuts on this fragment it was once probably part of a caftan, a ceremonial robe meant to impress the viewer with its use of luxury materials and striking design.