Pirpiri Kaftan

This pirpiri kaftan, a type of sleeveless dress that is tightly fitted to the waist, has an almost circular skirt that is open down the front, and is extensively decorated. It is a luxurious dress commonly worn by women in the Balkan region for weddings and other special occasions. The pirpiri kaftan would have been worn over an undershirt tucked into the baggy trousers (şalvar). The latter are held together by a decorative belt. Since the kaftan is open in the front, the belt’s clasp – often very large and heavily ornamented, part of the bride’s dowry – would be visible, as a sign of status and wealth.


Typical for Balkan taste and fashion is the extensive use of passementerie trim bands made with metallic thread that provides a glittery and luxurious overall appearance while also structuring the dress. Here we find two kinds, one braided and the other a wide woven band. Such trim is often couched on to felt or as seen in this example on a silk pile cut velvet. The band is applied on the edges and provides a sculptural, almost three-dimensional overall appearance to the fitted bust, which has been extensively tailored, and to the wide circular skirt. This latter is marked with a pair of vertical bands that connect with the bust in the back and line up a sequence of bold horizontal bands on each side of the kaftan. The deep dark purple of this example enhances the metallic overall treatment while adding a layer of luxuriousness. Much of the skirts’ side panels show bold applied vegetal compositions with metallic cord embroidery that is tacked onto the velvet. Spiraling forms develop into branches with large stylized leaves or tulips. Such decorative repertoire is in line with the broader Ottoman artistic tradition. However, the use of the blue-and-white floral cotton lining (probably a roller-print product), which would be partly visible, sets a strong contrast and marks a stylistic break with the deep velvety-metallic outer fabric. This is another common aspect of Balkan taste and fashion and is very different from Ottoman fashion in Istanbul/Anatolia, where the visible parts of the inner lining are generally chosen to visually accompany and enhance the outer fabric.