Pinecones-and-needles textile

Designer Associated Artists American
 Manufactured by Cheney Brothers American

On view at The Met Fifth Avenue in Gallery 773

This fabric exemplifies the type of high-quality, finely textured silk of complex weave designed by Associated Artists in collaboration with Cheney Brothers, a silk weaving firm in Hartford, Connecticut (1838-1955). In it twill and plain weaves are combined, creating a compound woven textile called a lampas. This type of work is primarily associated with Asian weaving; perhaps Candace Wheeler (1827-1923) and the Cheneys used a sample of Japanese fabric as a model. Fine yarns of expensive reeled silk were employed, and the resulting fabric is extremely lustrous and delicate. Although many of the patterns designed by Associated Artists were treated principally from an artistic viewpoint, with the weave of the fabric of secondary concern, textiles such as this one relied heavily on sophisticated weaving techniques.

Pinecones-and-needles textile, Associated Artists (1883–1907), Silk, woven, American

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Pinecones-and-needles textile, Associated Artists (1883–1907), Silk, woven, American
Pinecones-and-needles textile, Associated Artists (1883–1907), Silk, woven, American
Pinecones-and-needles textile, Associated Artists (1883–1907), Silk, woven, American
Pinecones-and-needles textile, Associated Artists (1883–1907), Silk, woven, American
Pinecones-and-needles textile, Associated Artists (1883–1907), Silk, woven, American

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