Pinecones-and-needles textile
This fabric exemplifies the type of high-quality, finely textured silk of complex weave designed by Associated Artists in collaboration with Cheney Brothers, a silk weaving firm in Hartford, Connecticut (1838-1955). In it twill and plain weaves are combined, creating a compound woven textile called a lampas. This type of work is primarily associated with Asian weaving; perhaps Candace Wheeler (1827-1923) and the Cheneys used a sample of Japanese fabric as a model. Fine yarns of expensive reeled silk were employed, and the resulting fabric is extremely lustrous and delicate. Although many of the patterns designed by Associated Artists were treated principally from an artistic viewpoint, with the weave of the fabric of secondary concern, textiles such as this one relied heavily on sophisticated weaving techniques.
Artwork Details
- Title: Pinecones-and-needles textile
- Designer: Associated Artists (1883–1907)
- Manufacturer: Manufactured by Cheney Brothers (American, 1838–1955)
- Date: 1883–1900
- Geography: Made in South Manchester, Connecticut, United States
- Culture: American
- Medium: Silk, woven
- Dimensions: 30 x 24 1/2 in. (76.2 x 62.2 cm)
- Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Boudinot Keith, 1928
- Object Number: 28.70.6
- Curatorial Department: The American Wing
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