Evening dress

By the 1920s, Gabrielle Chanel had established a reputation as a designer of pared-down and functional clothing, often with a linear silhouette. In the 1930s, however, she frequently used lace or tulle to bring a softer look and romantic feeling to her evening wear, while still following her characteristic design principles. The curved piecing at the hipline mirrors the round neckline of this dress. The simple shield shape of the scarf allows for graceful draping in a variety of ways over the bodice. Black lace was a signature textile used by Chanel in the 1930s, yet this example stands out because of the bold pattern. Rather than a conventional delicate mesh ground, the strong floral motifs in the lace are joined with bars embroidered with black thread for additional texture. Tulle layers beneath the lace overlayer in the skirt add to the overall dimensionality of the dress. It is this level of detail that sets a couture garment designed by Chanel apart from her many imitators.