Noh Robe (Karaori) with Pattern of Bamboo and Young Pines on Bands of Red and White

Once Noh theater was embraced by the military elite, its costumes became increasingly elaborate. Karaori (literally, “Chinese weave”) robes, distinguished by their rich patterns, became standard attire for female roles. In this example, the weft colors alternate with the stationary vertical threads (the warp) to create horizontal red-and-white bands. Woven over these—in green and gold on white, and in gold on red—is a design combining auspicious motifs: wakamatsu (young pine) and bamboo for endurance and renewal, hexagonal kikkō-tsunagi (linked tortoiseshell) for longevity, and interlocking circles for prosperity. These symbols are also associated with a joyous New Year.